Orthorhombically Packed Cosmetic Formulation Ensures Skin Lipid Barrier Stability

Background: The lipid components of the skin barrier have the strongest structure when arranged in an orthorhombic packing. This structure can be influenced by the external supply of lipophilic ingredients. While the benefits of ceramide supplementation are well-documented, the effects of the cosmetic formulation's oil-based ingredients have been less explored. Methods: The packing structures of commonly used oil and wax ingredients in cosmetics were analyzed using FT-IR. These components were then combined to formulate a cosmetic composition with an orthorhombic packing structure. The strength of the skin barrier was assessed by measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and the lipid packing of the porcine skin was analyzed using FT-IR. Results: Combining oil, wax and emulsifiers resulted in a cosmetic composition with an orthorhombic packing structure. In contrast, other combinations resulted in a hexagonal packing structure. The orthorhombic formulations maintained the structure and function of the porcine skin lipid barrier without disruption Conclusion: This study confirmed that an orthorhombic packing structure could be achieved without using the three main components of the skin barrier, such as ceramides, by reconstituting the formulation with ingredients that inherently have an orthorhombic structure. This formulation effectively maintains the integrity of healthy skin barriers.