Morpho-sedimentary dynamics of a high-energy Atlantic beach: Insights from repeated topographic surveys in El Jadida Bay (Morocco)

Morpho-sedimentary dynamics of a high-energy Atlantic beach: Insights from repeated topographic surveys in El Jadida Bay (Morocco) | Research Square window.SnipcartSettings = { analytics: { enabled: false } }; (function() { var accessVector = localStorage.getItem('access_vector') || ''; window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; if (accessVector) { window.dataLayer.push({ user: { profile: { profileInfo: { snid: accessVector } } } }); } })(); (function(w,d,s,l,i){w[l]=w[l]||[];w[l].push({'gtm.start':new Date().getTime(),event:'gtm.js'});var f=d.getElementsByTagName(s)[0],j=d.createElement(s),dl=l!='dataLayer'?'&l='+l:'';j.async=true;j.src='https://www.googletagmanager.com/gtm.js?id='+i+dl;f.parentNode.insertBefore(j,f);})(window,document,'script','dataLayer','GTM-K279D39R'); Browse Preprints In Review Journals COVID-19 Preprints AJE Video Bytes Research Tools Research Promotion AJE Professional Editing AJE Rubriq About Preprint Platform In Review Editorial Policies Our Team Advisory Board Help Center Sign In Submit a Preprint Cite Share Download PDF Research Article Morpho-sedimentary dynamics of a high-energy Atlantic beach: Insights from repeated topographic surveys in El Jadida Bay (Morocco) Imane Joudar, Mohammed Bouchkara, Nouhaila Erraji Chahid, Khalid Mehdi, and 2 more This is a preprint; it has not been peer reviewed by a journal. https://doi.org/ 10.21203/rs.3.rs-8776941/v1 This work is licensed under a CC BY 4.0 License Status: Posted Version 1 posted You are reading this latest preprint version Abstract Knowledge of coastal morphological processes is imperative in successful management of shorelines, especially in regions that are affected by both natural forces and human efforts. This research will examine how the El Jadida Bay (Morocco) morpho-sedimentary changes during a three-year period (2021–2024) as a fill to a research gap to enhance the current knowledge of short term coastal behavior. The topographic data were collected as high resolution data in four field survey based on the Global Positioning System Real Time Kinematic (GPS-RTK) measurements, where Digital Terrain Models (DTMs) were made. Spatial studies of these DTMs showed that there was a lot of morphological variation, whereby there are boom and boom erosion zones. There was an overall tendency towards the accumulation of sediments in upper beach sectors and local tides were in the form of erosion in intertidal regions. It was observed, especially after the March 2024 storm, how powerful the extreme meteorological conditions are to redistribute the sediment across the bay. On the whole, the findings support that combined topographic surveillance coupled with geostatistical modeling is an effective method to identify and quantify short term morphological variations. The research will be useful in the management and resilience of the sensitive coastal environment of the El Jadida shoreline by offering insight into the short-term dynamics of coastal processes that determine the shoreline. Coastal morphology Digital Terrain Model (DTM) topographic survey DGPS El Jadida bay Morocco Figures Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4 Figure 5 Figure 6 Figure 7 Figure 8 1 Introduction Coastal zones constitute among the most dynamic and complex interfaces on Earth, where land, ocean, and atmosphere interact through a cascade of physical, chemical, and biological processes (Wright and Short 1984 ). These environments provide critical ecosystem services including natural shoreline protection, habitat for biodiversity, carbon sequestration, and support for fisheries, tourism, and maritime infrastructure underpinning the livelihoods of over 40% of the global population living within 150 km of the coast (Nicholls and Cazenave 2010; Neumann et al. 2015 ; Small and Nicholls 2003 ; Nguyen et al. 2016 ; Syvitski et al. 2005 ). However, coastal systems are increasingly threatened by a confluence of natural and anthropogenic stressors, including accelerated sea-level rise, intensifying storminess, altered sediment budgets, and rapid coastal development (Idier et al. 2020 ; Pilkey et al. 1993 ). Among coastal landforms, sandy beaches are particularly sensitive to these drivers due to their inherent morphodynamic responsiveness to short-term hydrodynamic forcing and long-term environmental change (Masselink 2014 ). Sandy shorelines continuously adjust their morphology in response to tides, wave energy, wind regimes, sediment supply, and human interventions. These adjustments manifest as both transient, event-scale changes such as storm-induced erosion and beach recovery(Chaumillon et al. 2007 ; Mhammdi et al. 2020 ; Joudar et al. 2024 ) and persistent, decadal scale trends like chronic shoreline retreat (Aangri et al. 2022 ; El Khalidi et al. 2022 ; Erraji Chahid et al. 2024). Globally, an estimated 70% of sandy coasts are eroding, with hotspots of degradation concentrated in regions experiencing high wave energy, reduced fluvial sediment delivery, and intensive coastal modification (Luijendijk et al. 2018 ; Michalis I. Vousdoukas et al. 2018 ). Under climate change, the increasing frequency and intensity of extreme marine events are projected to further amplify erosion risks, threatening coastal infrastructure, ecosystems, and communities (Michalis I. Vousdoukas et al. 2020 ; Almar et al. 2021 ; IPCC 2022 ). Crucially, the expression of coastal change is highly site-specific, modulated by local morphological features such as nearshore bar configuration, beach slope, dune morphology, and sediment grain size (Lemke and Miller 2021 ; Johnston et al. 2023 ; Al Azad et al. 2026 ). This spatial heterogeneity underscores the necessity of high-resolution, field-based monitoring to inform effective coastal management and adaptation strategies particularly in data-scarce regions where model-based projections may lack local validation. In Morocco, the Atlantic coastline stretching over 3,500 km is characterized by high-energy wave climates and is increasingly vulnerable to both climatic and anthropogenic pressures (Snoussi et al. 2009 ; Moujane et al. 2011 ). Coastal urbanization, port construction, and sand mining have disrupted natural sediment transport pathways, while rising sea levels and more frequent storms exacerbate shoreline instability. El Jadida Bay lies on the Moroccan Atlantic coast, about 175 km southwest of Rabat (33°25’N; 8°29’W) (Fig. 1 ). The bay stretches for roughly 1.6 km with a parabolic outline oriented NW-SE, opening widely to the northwest and narrowing toward the southeast where rocky outcrops begin. To the northwest, it is bordered by the harbor seawall, while in the southwest, it is shaped by urban and residential structures. At low tide, the foreshore extends nearly 200 m, with its lower sections marked by rocky benches, particularly near the port. The hydrodynamic regime is dominated by semi diurnal tides with a period of 12 h 25 min, and by energetic swells that largely influence transport and shoreline changes. Waves from NNW and WNW and WNW represent about 90% of occurrences, with effective swells exceeding 2 m in height occurring more than 40% of the time (Mohamed Chaibi et al. 2013 ). the bay is exposed to strong seasonal winds (10–15 m/s) during winter months and recurrent storm events that generate significant wave heights exceeding 3–4 m (M Chaibi 2003 ). Recent studies have documented heightened vulnerability to storm surges, marine submersion, and episodic flooding in the area, linked to sediment imbalance and reduced beach resilience as demonstrated by Bourhili et al. ( 2023 ) and Joudar et al. ( 2024 ). El Jadida Bay is heavily influenced by human activities. Rapid coastal urban expansion has increased the exposure of infrastructure and residential areas to marine hazards. Although the local economy is multifaceted, tourism remains a dominant driver, with intensive recreational use of the beach and seasonal event exerting additional pressure on the shoreline. Despite its ecological and socioeconomic importance supporting tourism, fisheries, and urban development, the morpho-sedimentary dynamics of El Jadida Bay remain poorly constrained due to the lack of systematic, high-resolution field observations. Existing studies often rely on remote sensing or coarse-scale modeling (Mellas, Omira, and Gherardi 2012; Tadibaght et al. 2022 ), which may overlook fine-scale morphological variability essential for understanding beach response mechanisms. Accurate monitoring of beach morphology requires repeated, precise elevation measurements, for which Differential Global Positioning System (DGPS) and Real-Time Kinematic (RTK) GPS techniques have proven highly effective, offering centimeter-level vertical accuracy and robust reproducibility across survey campaigns (Stockdon et al. 2014 ; Harley and Kinsela 2022 ). While emerging technologies such as unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs), terrestrial laser scanning (TLS), and airborne LiDAR are increasingly integrated into coastal monitoring frameworks (M. I. Vousdoukas et al. 2011 ; Harley and Kinsela 2022 ), DGPS remains a cost-effective and reliable method for long-term profile-based assessments, especially in regions with limited access. This study leverages a three-year (2021-2022-2024) DGPS-based topographic monitoring program along fixed cross-shore transects in El Jadida Bay to address a critical knowledge gap in Moroccan coastal geomorphology. The main objective of this study is to assess the morphological evolution of El Jadida Bay over a three-year period (2021–2024) through repeated high resolution topographic surveys. Specifically, the research aims to (i) characterize multiyear trends in coastal morphology, (ii) identify spatial patterns of erosion and accretion, and (iii) evaluate the temporal variability of sediment dynamic in relation to hydrodynamic forcing. By addressing these objectives, this work enhances the understanding of sedimentary processes in a high energy Atlantic environment and provides critical insights to support sustainable coastal management and risk reduction strategies. By delivering a high-resolution, field-validated assessment of morphological change in a high-energy Atlantic setting, this study contributes to advancing predictive understanding of beach behavior under combined natural and anthropogenic pressures. The findings provide actionable insights for evidence-based coastal zone management, hazard mitigation, and climate adaptation planning in Morocco and analogous coastal systems globally. 2 Materials and methods 2.1 Topographic data collection and assembly The topographical surveys were done with a high-precision Real-Time Kinematic Global Positioning System (GPS-RTK) which has a horizontal error of under 1 cm and a vertical error of under 2 cm. This centimeter-level error is critical to the detection of the subtle, short-term morphological changes in a dynamic coastal environment, especially in intertidal and upper-beach environments. This system facilitated the generation of High-Resolution Digital Terrain Models (DTMs) of El Jadida bay, of which there are no existing field-based high-resolution topo-gravity data existing. The system was equipped with a mobile rover unit and a fixed base station (Fig. 2 ) which works in real time to correct differential positioning and reduce both random and systematic errors. This in situ measurement method was favored over remote sensing methods since the currently available satellite-derived DEMS and airborne Lidar data in Morocco do not provide sufficient spatial or vertical resolution to provide morphodynamic analysis at the beach scale, especially in tidally dominated regions. A total of 77 cross-shore beach profiles were established at regular 20 m interval along the entire bay. This dense and systematic sampling strategy ensured continuous spatial coverage and a representative characterization of the bay’s morpho-sedimentary system. These transects provided continuous elevation data from the upper backshore to the nearshore zone, extending inland and seaward to approximately − 1 m depth depending on local conditions (Fig. 3 ). Four survey campaigns were conducted between 2021 and 2024 to monitor short-term morphological evolution and sediment redistribution driven by wave and current actions. All measurements were taken during low-tide conditions, which maximized the surveyed intertidal surface and ensured the acquisition of complete beach profiles. The repeated high-resolution surveys, including post-storm conditions, provide a robust framework for quantifying storm-induced morphological responses in a frequently affected coastal setting. 2.2 Data analysis The collected topographic data were processed to evaluate the morphological evolution of El Jadida bay between the two survey periods (September 2021, March 2022, October 2022, and March 2024). Each beach profile was analyzed to quantify variations in elevation and to identify zones of erosion and accretion across the surveyed transects. To spatially extend these observations and generate continuous elevation surfaces, the data were interpolated in ArcGIS using geostatistical methods. The choice of interpolation technique is crucial, as it directly influences the accuracy and reliability of the resolution Digital Terrain Models (DTMs), Deterministic approaches, such as Inverse Distance Weighting (IDW), have been widely applied in coastal studies (Kiš 2016 ). However, several authors have demonstrated that geostatistical methods, particularly Ordinary Kriging (OK), provide superior accuracy when the spatial structure of the data is well defined (Merwade, Maidment, and Goff 2006 ; Curtarelli et al. 2015 ). Considering the characteristics of the collected data and the need to model spatial patterns with associated uncertainty, Ordinary Kriging (OK) was selected for this study. OK is particularly well suited for environmental applications, as it predicts unknown values at unsampled locations by accounting for spatial autocorrelation and simultaneously provides an estimate of the prediction uncertainty. The interpolation was performed at a spatial resolution of approximately 1 meter using a spherical semivariogram model with a nugget of 0.15 m², sill of 1.25 m², and range of 45 m. The model was validated through cross-validation, yielding a Root Mean Square Error (RMSE) of 0.18 m, indicating good prediction accuracy. These parameters ensure robust spatial modeling and uncertainty quantification in the generated Digital Terrain Models (DTMs) (Li and Heap 2014). Before generating the DTMs, the kriging model was calibrated and validated using cross validation techniques to ensure consistency between observed and predicted values (Fig. 4 ). This interpolation method was used to generate a Digital Terrain Model (DTM) with 1-meter spatial resolution using optimized kriging parameters for each survey periods September 2021, March 2022, October 2022 and Mach 2024 thus enabling a detailed spatial analysis of topographic changes and sediment dynamics across the beach of El Jadida. 3 Results 3.1 Morphological characteristics of El Jadida Bay Digital terrain models (DTMs) created for El Jadida Bay over four periods reveal marked sedimentary and morphological changes throughout the study area (Fig. 5 ). These changes are particularly evident following high-energy storm events, which caused marine submersion (Joudar et al. 2024 ) and significant sediment redistribution. Spatial comparisons of the DTMs highlight areas of erosion and accretion, reflecting the dynamic response of the beach to hydrodynamic forces; these results are consistent with previous studies conducted in the study area. (Bourhili et al. 2023 ; Mohamed Chaibi et al. 2013 ; Khouaja, Ouadia, and Irzan 2016). The September 2021 survey produced a (DTM) based on topographic measurements of El Jadida Bay, revealing elevation values ranging from − 1.4 m to 4.9 m. higher elevation zones are primarily located in the backshore area, along the boundary marked by the retaining wall separating the beach from the corniche, extending across the bay. In this sector, elevation value range between 2m and 4.9m, indicating substantial sediment accumulation, particularly in the southeastern part of the bay (Fig. 5 A). In contrast, the lower elevation values, ranging from 0 to -1 m, are observed in the intertidal zone. This zone is frequently submerged and subject to high hydrodynamic energy from waves and tidal actions, contributing to active sediment reworking and erosion. The Digital Terrain Model (DTM) generated from the March 2022 survey reveals homogenous topographic distribution across El Jadida Bay, with elevations ranging between − 1 m and 3 m. The highest terrain features, reaching 2 to 3 meters (Fig. 5 B), are predominantly located in the southeastern section of the bay and along the backshore, indicating continued sediment buildup in these areas. In contrast, the lowest elevations, which fall below − 1 meter, are mainly observed in the northwestern intertidal zone. This pattern highlights a spatial gradient in sediment dynamics, with depositional processes prevailing in the sheltered southeastern margin and erosion trends along the more exposed northwestern foreshore. Later in the same year, an additional topographic survey was conducted in October 2022. The resulting DTM shows elevation values ranging from − 1 m to 4 m. compared to the March 2022 dataset, this model reveals a general erosive trend across the beach. Areas that previously exhibited higher elevation particularly in March show a noticeable decrease in elevation during the October campaign (Fig. 5 C), indicating sediment loss and shoreline retreat in response to seasonal or event driven forcing. This highlights the dynamic nature of sediment redistribution within the bay over short temporal scales. The fourth topographic survey occurred in March 2024, immediately concluding a storm event that battered the Moroccan Atlantic coast on 11–12 March 2024. The topographic survey in the El Jadida Bay registered drastic changes in the coastline morphology, especially along the shoreline and in the upper beach areas. Sediments accumulated beyond 3 m elevation (Fig. 5 D), mainly in the backshore; the large sedimentation is due to the massive sediment transport generated by the storm surge, depositing and trapping sediments against the coastal retaining wall that separates the beach from the coast corniche. These recorded alterations stress the influence of extreme weather events on coastal sediment dynamics and link with the importance of coastal defense structure in trapping and redirecting sediments from transport. 3.2 Morpho-sedimentary variation between 2021 and 2024 The evolution of El Jadida Bay between 2021 and 2024 was analyzed using data collected during survey missions carried out in connection with storm events affecting the Atlantic coast. Comparing these successive surveys, as well as the net change between the first and the last campaigns, reveals both short term responses to storms and long term patterns of erosion and accretion across the bay. This approach provides an overall understanding of storm driven sediment redistribution and highlights the sectors most sensitive to erosional processes. 3.3 Spatial variability of beach morphology: Profile analysis To assess the evolving morphology of the beach, three representative profiles were selected in different sectors (Fig. 6 ). comparing them over the period 2021–2024 made it possible to detect changes in elevation and analyze the redistribution of sediments between morphological units. This profile assessment complements the bye wide synthesis by providing detailed information on the spatial variability of the beach morphology, before moving on to the description of each profile. 3.4 Spatial variability of beach morphology: Profile analysis Profile 1 Profile 1 shows a noticeable trend toward sediment accumulation during the first three missions conducted (Fig. 7 ), revealing a marked tendency in the topographic assessment. Indeed, the morphological variations observed during the missions carried out in September 2021, March 2022, and October 2022 indicate a largely generalized trend toward accretion, suggestion significant transformations over time. This trend was then interrupted by the considerable erosion that occurred during the violent storm of March 11 and 12, 2024, which caused severe flooding along the coastal region of El Jadida Bay. This morphological change not only highlights the dynamic interaction between accumulation and erosion, but also raises important questions about the long term impact on coastal environments affected by such extreme events. Profile 2 The sediment profile analysis reveals contrasting morphological dynamics at profile 2 although a general trend toward erosion is observed across the entire foreshore, localized sediment accumulation is noticeable at the top of the beach (Fig. 7 ). in addition, the lower zone experienced moderate, and temporary, sedimentation between 2021 and2024. These observations suggest that the sedimentary processes involved are complex, influenced by multiple factors such as swell, tides, coastal currents, and sediment inputs. Profile 3 Profile 3 is distinguished by its complex morphology, characterized by significant sediment accumulation in the top part of the beach, leading to the formation of an abrupt estran. Detailed analysis of the morphological data obtained during the four field missions highlights contrasting sediment dynamics, dominated by phases of marked erosion (Fig. 7 ). in particular, data from October 2022 show significant episodes of erosion that led a notable reduction in the volume of sediment on the beach. However, these erosion phases were followed by rapid coastal restoration, observed after the marine flooding that occurred in March 2024. This rapid sediment accretion suggest that this area is highly responsive to extreme hydrodynamic forces, such as storms and high tides. 3.5 Temporal synthesis of beach morphological variation The sediment budget analysis for El Jadida Bay between 2021 and 2024 (Table 1 ) reveals a net accretional trend, with accumulation processes dominating the overall morpho-sedimentary dynamics. Accumulation accounts for 56.03% of the total sediment exchange, corresponding to a net gain of + 65,182 m³ over an area of 219,705 m². In contrast, erosion affected 172,388 m² (43.97% of the surveyed area), resulting in a total sediment loss of -47,526 m³. Despite the prevalence of accretion, the substantial magnitude of erosion underscores the spatial and temporal complexity of beach response, wherein phases of sediment deposition are interspersed with localized but significant erosional events. The net sediment balance for the study period is + 17,656 m³, indicating a modest but consistent trend toward beach aggradation. This positive budget suggests a temporary enhancement of beach resilience and sediment storage capacity over the three-year monitoring window likely influenced by seasonal wave climates, sediment supply from adjacent sources, or reduced anthropogenic disturbance during the observation period. Table 1 Volume (m 3 ), surface area (m 2 ) and percentage of accretion and erosion in El Jadida Bay between 2021 and 2024. Volume (m 3 ) Superficie (m 2 ) % Accumulation + 65182 219705 56.03 Erosion -47526 172388 43.97 Accumulation/érosion totale + 17656 392093 To visualize the spatial distribution of these volumetric changes, a sediment budget map was generated (Fig. 8 ). Areas of erosion are depicted in red, while zones of deposition appear in green. The map highlights a heterogeneous pattern of morphological change across the bay: accretion is widespread but generally of low magnitude (average rate: +0.02 m yr⁻¹), whereas erosion is more spatially confined yet exhibits a higher average rate of − 0.09 m yr⁻¹. This contrast reflects the typical behavior of high-energy sandy beaches, where depositional processes dominate over large areas under fair-weather conditions, while storm-driven erosion concentrates in specific morphological hotspots such as the lower foreshore, profile inflection points, or areas adjacent to hard coastal structures. Notably, the total area affected by morphological change spans 392,093 m², encompassing nearly the entire intertidal and upper subtidal zone of the bay. The co-occurrence of accretion and erosion at fine spatial scales (Fig. 8 ; Table 1 ) illustrates the dynamic equilibrium or disequilibrium characteristic of wave-dominated shorelines. These findings emphasize that while the beach system is currently in a net accretion phase, localized erosion remains a critical concern for infrastructure and ecosystem integrity, particularly in vulnerable sectors exposed to oblique wave approach or reduced sediment connectivity. 4 Discussion 4.1 Spatial and temporal Morphological Dynamics The findings of this study underscore the highly dynamic and spatially heterogeneous nature of sedimentary processes in El Jadida Bay, where accretion and erosion operate concurrently often at fine spatial scales driven primarily by wave climate, tidal forcing, and episodic storm events. This dual behavior reflects the inherent sensitivity of wave-dominated embayment to short-term hydrodynamic variability and longer-term morphodynamic feedbacks. The coexistence of depositional and erosional zones highlights the non-equilibrium state of the beach system, wherein local imbalances in sediment transport continuously reshape the coastal morphology in response to fluctuating environmental conditions (Bourhili et al. 2025 ). Notably, the spatial and temporal patterns documented between 2021 and 2024 closely resemble those reported by Bourhili et al. ( 2023 ) for the 2017–2019 period, suggesting a recurring morphodynamic signature in El Jadida Bay. This consistency across distinct monitoring windows points to the dominant control exerted by regional hydrodynamics particularly the persistent northwesterly (NW-NNW) swell regime over sediment redistribution. Such recurrence reinforces the notion that El Jadida functions as a semi-closed, wave-refracted system where morphological evolution is governed more by external forcing and basin geometry than by stochastic variability alone. 4.2 Influence of structural and geomorphological controls One major finding of this study is that the accretion trends are dominant particularly in the upper (landward) parts of the bay which contribute to more than 56% of the total sediment budget. This net aggradation is a systematic or organized morphological response to hydrodynamic forcing and not a transient or random pattern. The accretion signal can be especially pronounced when it comes to high-energy events, e.g. the severe storm of March 2024 that likely caused the strong cross-shore sediment mobilization at the storm peak, followed by onshore-directed transport and deposition at the post-storm recovery phase under lower-energy conditions. This disposition towards depositions seems to be increased by two principal causes. To begin with, the El Jadida Port breakwater provides a partial shield against the incident wave energy of the prevailing NW-NNW directions. By changing the wave propagation and lowering the nearshore orbital velocities, the breakawater restricts the sability of sediments and predisposes to net deposition on its lee. Consequently, the neighboring shoreline acts as an unintended sediment trap, which has facilitated local accretion. Although this type of coastal infrastructure can lead to short-term stabilization of the shorelines, it also alters alongshore sediment transport pathways, which potentiates sediment deficits and erosion to close-by sectors -A well-documented reaction of engineered coast lining (Short and Jackson 2013 ; Harley and Kinsela 2022 ). Second, the planform geometry of El Jadida Bay which is concave, is at the core of modulatory of the wave energy due to refraction and partial reflection (Mayhew and Parkinson 2007). The entrance of the waves crests into the bay are gradually refracted to match the curved shoreline creating a more homogeneous distribution of wave energy and a decrease in localized hotspots of erosion. This hydrodynamic modification forms relatively sheltered nearshore zones which become good to sedimentation, especially in the inner bay. this process in the long run facilitates progressive infilling and morphological stabilization which is compatible with self-organizing behavior seen in embayed coastal systems. Further in support of gradual adjustments of bathymetry there is the gradual depletion of the wave energy in the outer bay to inner bay in support of the deposition and retention of fine and medium graded sands. Such morphological transformations, in their turn, may feed back into future pathways of wave transformations and sediment transport, which may serve to reinforce the apparent accretionary trend. 4.3 Implications for coastal management and climate resilience The high-resolution topographic surveys conducted in El Jadida Bay reveal that, despite significant perturbations caused by storms and wave-driven processes, the beach system exhibits a tendency to return toward a quasi-stable morphological configuration, suggesting the presence of a morphodynamic memory (Bourhili et al. 2025 , 2023 ). This resilience reflects the intrinsic capacity of the bay to reorganize sediment and energy distribution following disturbances, indicating that certain sectors are inherently more stable, while others respond more dynamically to hydrodynamic forcing. Such behavior represents a conceptually original feature of the coastal system and provides a framework for understanding short-term morphodynamics beyond purely observational descriptions. To formalize this concept, we propose a site-specific conceptual model describing the bay’s morphodynamic signature. The semi-enclosed geometry of El Jadida Bay acts as a natural filter for incoming wave energy, with wave refraction and partial reflection redistributing energy along the curved shoreline. This process creates sheltered zones in the inner bay, which favor sediment accumulation and accretion, while exposed sectors experience higher erosion during storms. Structural features, such as the El Jadida Port breakwater, further modify local hydrodynamics by attenuating wave energy and reducing sediment resuspension in its lee, effectively creating localized sediment sinks. The interplay between bay geometry, hydrodynamic forcing, and anthropogenic structures defines the characteristic patterns of erosion, accretion, and post-storm recovery, which collectively constitute the morphodynamic signature (Sherwood et al. 2022 ; Castelle and Gerd Masselink 2022). This conceptual framework provides a mechanistic understanding of the bay’s resilience and highlights the coupling between physical drivers and observed sediment dynamics. It also underscores the importance of site-specific geomorphic and hydrodynamic constraints, demonstrating why certain sectors are more resilient and others more susceptible to short-term morphological change. The proposed morphodynamic signature not only aids in interpreting the present short-term observations but also establishes a baseline for future monitoring, numerical modelling, and coastal management strategies, particularly in storm-prone and semi-enclosed embayed systems. Finally, integrating this conceptual model with historical vulnerability analyses and high-resolution DTMs allows for a more comprehensive assessment of both short-term morphodynamics and potential long-term coastal evolution. By formalizing the morphodynamic signature, the study provides a novel scientific contribution that combines empirical observations, process understanding, and resilience assessment, bridging the gap between descriptive monitoring and mechanistic coastal science. 5 Conclusion This study has provided a comprehensive, data driven characterization of the morpho sedimentary dynamics of El Jadida Bay between 2021 and 2024 through high-resolution topographic survey and the generation of Digital Terrain Models (DTMs). The findings highlight a complex interplay between sediment accumulation and erosion, influenced by both natural forcing factor a coastal infrastructure. Four field campaigns conducted over different seasons and hydrodynamic conditions revealed a general trend toward sediment accretion, with significant volumetric gains observed particularly in the upper sections of the bay. This accretion, accounting for approximately 56% of the overall sediment balance, is largely attributed to the bay’s concave geomorphology, the presence of coastal defenses such as the port jetty and seawall, and the attenuation of the wave energy through diffraction and refraction mechanisms. Nevertheless, erosion processes remain active and spatially localized, underscoring the dynamic and ever changing nature of this coastal system. Notably, the March 2024 study, which was carried out right after a major storm, showed how severe weather can cause significant sediment redistribution. Significant morphological changes were caused by storm-induced transport, especially in regions where coastal buildings contained or focused wave energy. These findings support earlier research and demonstrate how vulnerable El Jadida's coastal environment is to both seasonal and sporadic hydrodynamic changes. In view of growing climate variability and the anticipated increase in the frequency of extreme weather events, they thus emphasize the significance of ongoing monitoring and integrated coastal zone management. To gain a deeper understanding of the fundamental processes driving coastal change, future research should concentrate on combining these topographic data with hydrodynamic modeling and sediment transport simulations. These methods will be essential for creating adaptable plans that improve the coastline of El Jadida's resilience. Declarations Clinical Trial Registration Clinical trial number: not applicable. Conflict of interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper. Funding The authors have no relevant financial or non-financial interests to disclose Author Contribution I.J. conceived and designed the study, conducted the field surveys, processed and analyzed the data, and wrote the original draft of the manuscript and prepared all figures and tables and interpreted the results. M.B.conducted the field surveys, processed and analyzed the data. N.E. conducted the field surveys, processed and analyzed the data prepared all figures and tables and interpreted the results. K.M and B.Z and K.E. supervised the research, contributed to the interpretation of the results, and reviewed and edited the manuscript. All authors read and approved the final version of the manuscript. Data Availability The data used and analyzed during the current study were obtained from original topographic surveys conducted by the authors. Due to the ongoing use of these data for subsequent research and publication, they are not publicly available at this time. 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Coastal Flood: A Composite Method for Past Events Characterisation Providing Insights in Past, Present and Future Hazards—Joining Historical, Statistical and Modelling Approaches. Natural Hazards 101 (2): 465–501. https://doi.org/10.1007/S11069-020-03882-4/FIGURES/18 IPCC (2022) Climate Change 2022: Impacts, Adaptation and Vulnerability. Contribution of Working Group II to the Sixth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change . Climate Change 2022 – Impacts, Adaptation and Vulnerability . https://doi.org/10.1017/9781009325844.CITATIONS Johnston KK, Jenifer E, Dugan DM, Hubbard KA, Emery, and Melodie W. Grubbs (2023) Using Dune Restoration on an Urban Beach as a Coastal Resilience Approach. Front Mar Sci 10(June):1187488. https://doi.org/10.3389/FMARS.2023.1187488/BIBTEX Joudar I, Bouchkara M, Chahid NE, Benazzouz A, Mehdi K, Zourarah B, Khalid Ekhalidi (2024) Storm-Induced Marine Flooding on Morocco’s Atlantic Coast — Case of El Jadida Bay. Nat Hazards 120(15):14333–14354. https://doi.org/10.1007/S11069-024-06781-0 Khalidi K, El A, Bourhili I, Bagdanavičiūtė A, Minoubi M, Hakkou B, Zourarah, and Mehdi Maanan (2022) Coastal Land Use and Shoreline Evolution along the Nador Lagoon Coast in Morocco. Geocarto Int 37(25):7445–7461. https://doi.org/10.1080/10106049.2021.1974958 Khouaja S, Ouadia M (2016) and El Mehdi Irzan. Fonctionnement De La Plage d’El Jadida (Côte Atlantique Marocaine): Apport De L’étude Morphodynamique, Sédimentologique, Minéralogique Et De L’action Anthropique. European Scientific Journal, ESJ 12 (18): 93. https://doi.org/10.19044/ESJ.2016.V12N18P93 Kiš IMesić (2016) Comparison of Ordinary and Universal Kriging Interpolation Techniques on a Depth Variable (a Case of Linear Spatial Trend), Case Study of the Šandrovac Field. Rudarsko Geolosko Naftni Zbornik 31(2):41–58. https://doi.org/10.17794/RGN.2016.2.4 Lemke L, Miller JK (2021) Role of Storm Erosion Potential and Beach Morphology in Controlling Dune Erosion. J Mar Sci Eng 9(12). https://doi.org/10.3390/JMSE9121428 Li J, and Andrew D. Heap (2014) Spatial Interpolation Methods Applied in the Environmental Sciences: A Review. Environ Model Softw 53(March):173–189. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.ENVSOFT.2013.12.008 Luijendijk A, Hagenaars G, Ranasinghe R, Baart F, Donchyts G, and Stefan Aarninkhof (2018) The State of the World’s Beaches. Sci Rep 8(1):1–11. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-018-24630-6 Masselink G (2014) Coastal Environments and Global Change., 438 Mayhew TA, Randall WP (2007) Holocene Evolution of the Barrier Island System, East-Central Florida. Fla Sci 70(4):383–397 Mellas S, Rachid Omira, Gherardi M (2012) Le Risque Tsunamique Au Maroc: Modélisation et Évaluation Au Moyen d’un Premier Jeu d’indicateurs d’exposition Du Littoral Atlantique. Géopraphie Phys et Environement 6:119–139. https://doi.org/10.4000/physio-geo.2589 Merwade VM, Maidment DR, Goff JA (2006) Anisotropic Considerations While Interpolating River Channel Bathymetry. J Hydrol 331(3–4):731–741. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jhydrol.2006.06.018 Mhammdi N, Medina F, Belkhayat Z, Aoula RE, Geawahri MA (2020) and Adil Chiguer. Marine Storms along the Moroccan Atlantic Coast: An Underrated Natural Hazard? Journal of African Earth Sciences 163 (March 2019): 103–730. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jafrearsci.2019.103730 Moujane A, Bentamy A, Chagdali M, and Soumia Mordane (2011) Analysis of High Spatial and Temporal Surface Winds from Aladin Model and from Remotely Sensed Data over the Canarian. Revue Télédétection 10:11–12 Neumann B, Vafeidis AT, Zimmermann J, and Robert J. Nicholls (2015) Future Coastal Population Growth and Exposure to Sea-Level Rise and Coastal Flooding - A Global Assessment. PLoS ONE 10(3):e0118571. https://doi.org/10.1371/JOURNAL.PONE.0118571 Nguyen TTX, Bonetti J, Rogers K, Woodroffe CD (2016) Indicator-Based Assessment of Climate-Change Impacts on Coasts: A Review of Concepts, Methodological Approaches and Vulnerability Indices. Ocean Coast Manag 123:18–43. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocecoaman.2015.11.022 Nicholls RJ, and Anny Cazenave (2010) Sea-Level Rise and Its Impact on Coastal Zones. Science 328(5985):1517–1520. https://doi.org/10.1126/science.1185782 Pilkey OH, Young RS, Riggs SR, Smith AWS, Wu H, Pilkey WD (1993) The Concept of Shoreface Profile of Equilibrium: A Critical Review. J Coastal Res 9(1):255–278 Sherwood CR, Van Ap J, Doyle, Christie A, Hegermiller Tian-jian, Hsu, Tarandeep S, Kalra M, Olabarrieta et al (2022) Modeling the Morphodynamics of Coastal Responses to Extreme Events. What Shape Are We In ?, pp 457–492 Short AD, Jackson DWT (2013) Beach Morphodynamics. Treatise Geomorphology 10:106–129. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-374739-6.00275-X Small C, Nicholls RJ (2003) A Global Analysis of Human Settlement in Coastal Zones. J Coastal Res 19(3):584–599. https://doi.org/10.2307/4299200 Snoussi M, Ouchani T, Khouakhi A, and Isabelle Niang-Diop (2009) Impacts of Sea-Level Rise on the Moroccan Coastal Zone: Quantifying Coastal Erosion and Flooding in the Tangier Bay. Geomorphology 107(1–2):32–40. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.2006.07.043 Stockdon HF, Thompson DM, Plant NG, Long JW (2014) Evaluation of Wave Runup Predictions from Numerical and Parametric Models. Coast Eng 92(October):1–11. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.COASTALENG.2014.06.004 Syvitski JPM, Charles J, Vörösmarty AJ, Kettner, and Pamela Green (2005) Impact of Humans on the Flux of Terrestrial Sediment to the Global Coastal Ocean. Science 308:376–380. https://doi.org/10.1126/science.1109454 Tadibaght A, Agharroud K, Bounab A, Abdelmounim El M’rini, Siame L, Kharim YE, Bellier O, and Otman El Ouaty (2022) Quantitative Risk Assessment in El-Jadida (Northern Atlantic Coast of Morocco) for a Tsunami Scenario Equivalent to That of the 1755 Lisbon Earthquake. Environ Earth Sci 81(5):1–18. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12665-022-10277-0 Vousdoukas MI, Pennucci G, Holman RA, Conley DC (2011) A Semi Automatic Technique for Rapid Environmental Assessment in the Coastal Zone Using Small Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (SUAV). Journal Coastal Research no SPEC ISSUE 64:1755–1759 Vousdoukas MI, Mentaschi L, Voukouvalas E, Verlaan M, Jevrejeva S, Jackson LP (2018) and Luc Feyen. Global Probabilistic Projections of Extreme Sea Levels Show Intensification of Coastal Flood Hazard. Nature Communications 2018 9:1 9 (1): 1–12. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41467-018-04692-w Vousdoukas MI, Ranasinghe R, Mentaschi L, Plomaritis TA, Athanasiou P, Luijendijk A, and Luc Feyen (2020) Sandy Coastlines under Threat of Erosion. Nat Clim Change 10(3):260–263. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41558-020-0697-0 Wright LD, Short AD (1984) Morphodynamic Variability of Surf Zones and Beaches: A Synthesis. Mar Geol 56(1–4):93–118. https://doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(84)90008-2 Additional Declarations No competing interests reported. Cite Share Download PDF Status: Posted Version 1 posted You are reading this latest preprint version Research Square lets you share your work early, gain feedback from the community, and start making changes to your manuscript prior to peer review in a journal. As a division of Research Square Company, we’re committed to making research communication faster, fairer, and more useful. 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Also discoverable on Platform About Our Team In Review Editorial Policies Advisory Board Help Center Resources Author Services Accessibility API Access RSS feed Manage Cookie Preferences © Research Square 2026 | ISSN 2693-5015 (online) Privacy Policy Terms of Service Do Not Sell My Personal Information {"props":{"pageProps":{"initialData":{"identity":"rs-8776941","acceptedTermsAndConditions":true,"allowDirectSubmit":true,"archivedVersions":[],"articleType":"Research Article","associatedPublications":[],"authors":[{"id":587808599,"identity":"257d981c-50aa-4f7b-a6ce-db27d505e531","order_by":0,"name":"Imane Joudar","email":"data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAZAAAAAyAQMAAABI0h/eAAAABlBMVEX///8AAABVwtN+AAAACXBIWXMAAA7EAAAOxAGVKw4bAAAAzklEQVRIiWNgGAWjYBACxgYGBgkgzcPPAGGQoEWygVgtDDDDDQ4Qq4W5vcfwxs89DDLGN5If3mCosWPQbT9AwGE9Z4wte54x8JjdSDO2YDiWzGB2JoGAlhk5ZhI8B0BactgkGNgOMJgdIEKL5B+gFuMZIC3/gFrOPyCsRRpki4EEUAtjG1DLDUK29BwrtpY5IMEjceaZsUViXzLQhQRsMWxv3njzzQEbe/52YIh9+GYnZ3aegC2GDWAKGiNAxTz41QOBPEEVo2AUjIJRMAoAWjM8+Dno9WMAAAAASUVORK5CYII=","orcid":"","institution":"Marine Geosciences and Soil Science Laboratory (URAC-45), Earth Sciences Department, Faculty of Sciences, Chouaib Doukkali University","correspondingAuthor":true,"prefix":"","firstName":"Imane","middleName":"","lastName":"Joudar","suffix":""},{"id":587808600,"identity":"b45d0006-db6f-45e5-9bcb-b691b08f3fda","order_by":1,"name":"Mohammed Bouchkara","email":"","orcid":"","institution":"Marine Geosciences and Soil Science Laboratory (URAC-45), Earth Sciences Department, Faculty of Sciences, Chouaib Doukkali University","correspondingAuthor":false,"prefix":"","firstName":"Mohammed","middleName":"","lastName":"Bouchkara","suffix":""},{"id":587808605,"identity":"e6e92fe5-5f65-4721-81f3-f77c21d36dd3","order_by":2,"name":"Nouhaila Erraji Chahid","email":"","orcid":"","institution":"Marine Geosciences and Soil Science Laboratory (URAC-45), Earth Sciences Department, Faculty of Sciences, Chouaib Doukkali University","correspondingAuthor":false,"prefix":"","firstName":"Nouhaila","middleName":"Erraji","lastName":"Chahid","suffix":""},{"id":587808611,"identity":"261677cf-a5e2-4759-932f-4a7067089553","order_by":3,"name":"Khalid Mehdi","email":"","orcid":"","institution":"Sultan MoulaySlimane University","correspondingAuthor":false,"prefix":"","firstName":"Khalid","middleName":"","lastName":"Mehdi","suffix":""},{"id":587808621,"identity":"0d889d47-217f-42eb-ab90-0aaadfa7ae0b","order_by":4,"name":"Bendahhou Zourarah","email":"","orcid":"","institution":"Marine Geosciences and Soil Science Laboratory (URAC-45), Earth Sciences Department, Faculty of Sciences, Chouaib Doukkali University","correspondingAuthor":false,"prefix":"","firstName":"Bendahhou","middleName":"","lastName":"Zourarah","suffix":""},{"id":587808622,"identity":"148c9cb9-9aa5-4bb3-a684-e9964dbb64d8","order_by":5,"name":"Khalid El khalidi","email":"","orcid":"","institution":"Marine Geosciences and Soil Science Laboratory (URAC-45), Earth Sciences Department, Faculty of Sciences, Chouaib Doukkali University","correspondingAuthor":false,"prefix":"","firstName":"Khalid","middleName":"El","lastName":"khalidi","suffix":""}],"badges":[],"createdAt":"2026-02-03 14:10:49","currentVersionCode":1,"declarations":"","doi":"10.21203/rs.3.rs-8776941/v1","doiUrl":"https://doi.org/10.21203/rs.3.rs-8776941/v1","draftVersion":[],"editorialEvents":[],"editorialNote":"","failedWorkflow":false,"files":[{"id":102582043,"identity":"666b229b-df67-4712-b27d-5759ef32d981","added_by":"auto","created_at":"2026-02-13 09:35:25","extension":"png","order_by":1,"title":"Figure 1","display":"","copyAsset":false,"role":"figure","size":1279274,"visible":true,"origin":"","legend":"\u003cp\u003eGeographical location of El Jadida Bay and rose diagram of significant wave height at SIMAR point 1,048,034 by Puertos del Estado during 2021 and 2024.\u003c/p\u003e","description":"","filename":"image1.png","url":"https://assets-eu.researchsquare.com/files/rs-8776941/v1/951c8187ca4b69474397468f.png"},{"id":102582044,"identity":"a4823423-4eef-40b7-a464-c0fbbe175108","added_by":"auto","created_at":"2026-02-13 09:35:25","extension":"png","order_by":2,"title":"Figure 2","display":"","copyAsset":false,"role":"figure","size":1468867,"visible":true,"origin":"","legend":"\u003cp\u003eTopographic data acquisition setup: (A) Field survey using the GPS-RTK rover in El Jadida Bay; (B) Fixed base station for differential correction.\u003c/p\u003e","description":"","filename":"image2.png","url":"https://assets-eu.researchsquare.com/files/rs-8776941/v1/da8f9c7c56009633e857e514.png"},{"id":102746613,"identity":"6ccc86ab-f0c8-432d-b08f-46f07a662f54","added_by":"auto","created_at":"2026-02-16 08:58:41","extension":"png","order_by":3,"title":"Figure 3","display":"","copyAsset":false,"role":"figure","size":2679425,"visible":true,"origin":"","legend":"\u003cp\u003eSpatial distribution of the 77 cross-shore beach profiles along El Jadida Beach.\u003c/p\u003e","description":"","filename":"image3.png","url":"https://assets-eu.researchsquare.com/files/rs-8776941/v1/c53d72037406c003715e7f7f.png"},{"id":102582045,"identity":"b4209069-7dfe-4410-b7f0-7dad36ea8e3a","added_by":"auto","created_at":"2026-02-13 09:35:26","extension":"png","order_by":4,"title":"Figure 4","display":"","copyAsset":false,"role":"figure","size":840566,"visible":true,"origin":"","legend":"\u003cp\u003eFlowchart of the methodology adopted to create DTMs\u003c/p\u003e","description":"","filename":"image4.png","url":"https://assets-eu.researchsquare.com/files/rs-8776941/v1/52690b2a211d217073a390b3.png"},{"id":102582047,"identity":"075ab76e-949b-4125-a071-a5d6163819da","added_by":"auto","created_at":"2026-02-13 09:35:26","extension":"png","order_by":5,"title":"Figure 5","display":"","copyAsset":false,"role":"figure","size":775131,"visible":true,"origin":"","legend":"\u003cp\u003eDigital Terrain Models (DTMs) of El Jadida Bay from the Four Topographic Survey Missions: (A) September 2021, (B) March 2022, (C) October 2022, and (D) March 2024.\u003c/p\u003e","description":"","filename":"image5.png","url":"https://assets-eu.researchsquare.com/files/rs-8776941/v1/1af415fed1bf31582aa96827.png"},{"id":102582051,"identity":"c3124524-a188-4db4-a622-1916dbaac4c9","added_by":"auto","created_at":"2026-02-13 09:35:26","extension":"png","order_by":6,"title":"Figure 6","display":"","copyAsset":false,"role":"figure","size":2953579,"visible":true,"origin":"","legend":"\u003cp\u003eLocation of the three profiles selected in different areas of El Jadida beach.\u003c/p\u003e","description":"","filename":"image6.png","url":"https://assets-eu.researchsquare.com/files/rs-8776941/v1/e42e162961a90271681cf623.png"},{"id":102747934,"identity":"c0cb75f1-8828-4e3e-b555-2c08470b2ba8","added_by":"auto","created_at":"2026-02-16 09:05:36","extension":"png","order_by":7,"title":"Figure 7","display":"","copyAsset":false,"role":"figure","size":242893,"visible":true,"origin":"","legend":"\u003cp\u003eChanges in profile morphology between the 2021 and 2024 survey.\u003c/p\u003e","description":"","filename":"image7.png","url":"https://assets-eu.researchsquare.com/files/rs-8776941/v1/2b23c69e1e2bff28089f1fcc.png"},{"id":102582049,"identity":"56f8221e-3f57-4c08-8d33-e3266d08c593","added_by":"auto","created_at":"2026-02-13 09:35:26","extension":"png","order_by":8,"title":"Figure 8","display":"","copyAsset":false,"role":"figure","size":734207,"visible":true,"origin":"","legend":"\u003cp\u003eSpatial variation of accretion and erosion in El Jadida Bay between 2021 and 2024.\u003c/p\u003e","description":"","filename":"image8.png","url":"https://assets-eu.researchsquare.com/files/rs-8776941/v1/e54032a9ec0c97b4c5deaa52.png"},{"id":102750815,"identity":"abec3afe-40ef-444d-8de5-3ea24f85abec","added_by":"auto","created_at":"2026-02-16 09:22:25","extension":"pdf","order_by":0,"title":"","display":"","copyAsset":false,"role":"manuscript-pdf","size":11418578,"visible":true,"origin":"","legend":"","description":"","filename":"manuscript.pdf","url":"https://assets-eu.researchsquare.com/files/rs-8776941/v1/4a63f96e-1fcf-4d50-a146-57b181070aea.pdf"}],"financialInterests":"No competing interests reported.","formattedTitle":"Morpho-sedimentary dynamics of a high-energy Atlantic beach: Insights from repeated topographic surveys in El Jadida Bay (Morocco)","fulltext":[{"header":"1 Introduction","content":"\u003cp\u003eCoastal zones constitute among the most dynamic and complex interfaces on Earth, where land, ocean, and atmosphere interact through a cascade of physical, chemical, and biological processes (Wright and Short \u003cspan citationid=\"CR43\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e1984\u003c/span\u003e). These environments provide critical ecosystem services including natural shoreline protection, habitat for biodiversity, carbon sequestration, and support for fisheries, tourism, and maritime infrastructure underpinning the livelihoods of over 40% of the global population living within 150 km of the coast (Nicholls and Cazenave 2010; Neumann et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR29\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2015\u003c/span\u003e; Small and Nicholls \u003cspan citationid=\"CR35\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2003\u003c/span\u003e; Nguyen et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR30\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2016\u003c/span\u003e; Syvitski et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR38\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2005\u003c/span\u003e). However, coastal systems are increasingly threatened by a confluence of natural and anthropogenic stressors, including accelerated sea-level rise, intensifying storminess, altered sediment budgets, and rapid coastal development (Idier et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR13\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2020\u003c/span\u003e; Pilkey et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR32\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e1993\u003c/span\u003e). Among coastal landforms, sandy beaches are particularly sensitive to these drivers due to their inherent morphodynamic responsiveness to short-term hydrodynamic forcing and long-term environmental change (Masselink \u003cspan citationid=\"CR23\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2014\u003c/span\u003e).\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eSandy shorelines continuously adjust their morphology in response to tides, wave energy, wind regimes, sediment supply, and human interventions. These adjustments manifest as both transient, event-scale changes such as storm-induced erosion and beach recovery(Chaumillon et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR9\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2007\u003c/span\u003e; Mhammdi et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR27\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2020\u003c/span\u003e; Joudar et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR16\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2024\u003c/span\u003e) and persistent, decadal scale trends like chronic shoreline retreat (Aangri et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR1\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2022\u003c/span\u003e; El Khalidi et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR17\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2022\u003c/span\u003e; Erraji Chahid et al. 2024). Globally, an estimated 70% of sandy coasts are eroding, with hotspots of degradation concentrated in regions experiencing high wave energy, reduced fluvial sediment delivery, and intensive coastal modification (Luijendijk et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR22\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2018\u003c/span\u003e; Michalis I. Vousdoukas et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR41\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2018\u003c/span\u003e). Under climate change, the increasing frequency and intensity of extreme marine events are projected to further amplify erosion risks, threatening coastal infrastructure, ecosystems, and communities (Michalis I. Vousdoukas et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR42\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2020\u003c/span\u003e; Almar et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR2\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2021\u003c/span\u003e; IPCC \u003cspan citationid=\"CR14\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2022\u003c/span\u003e). Crucially, the expression of coastal change is highly site-specific, modulated by local morphological features such as nearshore bar configuration, beach slope, dune morphology, and sediment grain size (Lemke and Miller \u003cspan citationid=\"CR20\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2021\u003c/span\u003e; Johnston et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR15\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2023\u003c/span\u003e; Al Azad et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR3\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2026\u003c/span\u003e). This spatial heterogeneity underscores the necessity of high-resolution, field-based monitoring to inform effective coastal management and adaptation strategies particularly in data-scarce regions where model-based projections may lack local validation.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eIn Morocco, the Atlantic coastline stretching over 3,500 km is characterized by high-energy wave climates and is increasingly vulnerable to both climatic and anthropogenic pressures (Snoussi et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR36\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2009\u003c/span\u003e; Moujane et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR28\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2011\u003c/span\u003e). Coastal urbanization, port construction, and sand mining have disrupted natural sediment transport pathways, while rising sea levels and more frequent storms exacerbate shoreline instability. El Jadida Bay lies on the Moroccan Atlantic coast, about 175 km southwest of Rabat (33\u0026deg;25\u0026rsquo;N; 8\u0026deg;29\u0026rsquo;W) (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig1\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e1\u003c/span\u003e). The bay stretches for roughly 1.6 km with a parabolic outline oriented NW-SE, opening widely to the northwest and narrowing toward the southeast where rocky outcrops begin. To the northwest, it is bordered by the harbor seawall, while in the southwest, it is shaped by urban and residential structures. At low tide, the foreshore extends nearly 200 m, with its lower sections marked by rocky benches, particularly near the port. The hydrodynamic regime is dominated by semi diurnal tides with a period of 12 h 25 min, and by energetic swells that largely influence transport and shoreline changes. Waves from NNW and WNW and WNW represent about 90% of occurrences, with effective swells exceeding 2 m in height occurring more than 40% of the time (Mohamed Chaibi et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR8\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2013\u003c/span\u003e). the bay is exposed to strong seasonal winds (10\u0026ndash;15 m/s) during winter months and recurrent storm events that generate significant wave heights exceeding 3\u0026ndash;4 m (M Chaibi \u003cspan citationid=\"CR7\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2003\u003c/span\u003e). Recent studies have documented heightened vulnerability to storm surges, marine submersion, and episodic flooding in the area, linked to sediment imbalance and reduced beach resilience as demonstrated by Bourhili et al. (\u003cspan citationid=\"CR5\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2023\u003c/span\u003e) and Joudar et al. (\u003cspan citationid=\"CR16\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2024\u003c/span\u003e). El Jadida Bay is heavily influenced by human activities. Rapid coastal urban expansion has increased the exposure of infrastructure and residential areas to marine hazards. Although the local economy is multifaceted, tourism remains a dominant driver, with intensive recreational use of the beach and seasonal event exerting additional pressure on the shoreline. Despite its ecological and socioeconomic importance supporting tourism, fisheries, and urban development, the morpho-sedimentary dynamics of El Jadida Bay remain poorly constrained due to the lack of systematic, high-resolution field observations. Existing studies often rely on remote sensing or coarse-scale modeling (Mellas, Omira, and Gherardi 2012; Tadibaght et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR39\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2022\u003c/span\u003e), which may overlook fine-scale morphological variability essential for understanding beach response mechanisms. Accurate monitoring of beach morphology requires repeated, precise elevation measurements, for which Differential Global Positioning System (DGPS) and Real-Time Kinematic (RTK) GPS techniques have proven highly effective, offering centimeter-level vertical accuracy and robust reproducibility across survey campaigns (Stockdon et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR37\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2014\u003c/span\u003e; Harley and Kinsela \u003cspan citationid=\"CR12\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2022\u003c/span\u003e).\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eWhile emerging technologies such as unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs), terrestrial laser scanning (TLS), and airborne LiDAR are increasingly integrated into coastal monitoring frameworks (M. I. Vousdoukas et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR40\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2011\u003c/span\u003e; Harley and Kinsela \u003cspan citationid=\"CR12\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2022\u003c/span\u003e), DGPS remains a cost-effective and reliable method for long-term profile-based assessments, especially in regions with limited access. This study leverages a three-year (2021-2022-2024) DGPS-based topographic monitoring program along fixed cross-shore transects in El Jadida Bay to address a critical knowledge gap in Moroccan coastal geomorphology.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e \u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eThe main objective of this study is to assess the morphological evolution of El Jadida Bay over a three-year period (2021\u0026ndash;2024) through repeated high resolution topographic surveys. Specifically, the research aims to (i) characterize multiyear trends in coastal morphology, (ii) identify spatial patterns of erosion and accretion, and (iii) evaluate the temporal variability of sediment dynamic in relation to hydrodynamic forcing. By addressing these objectives, this work enhances the understanding of sedimentary processes in a high energy Atlantic environment and provides critical insights to support sustainable coastal management and risk reduction strategies. By delivering a high-resolution, field-validated assessment of morphological change in a high-energy Atlantic setting, this study contributes to advancing predictive understanding of beach behavior under combined natural and anthropogenic pressures. The findings provide actionable insights for evidence-based coastal zone management, hazard mitigation, and climate adaptation planning in Morocco and analogous coastal systems globally.\u003c/p\u003e"},{"header":"2 Materials and methods","content":"\u003cdiv id=\"Sec3\" class=\"Section2\"\u003e \u003ch2\u003e2.1 Topographic data collection and assembly\u003c/h2\u003e \u003cp\u003eThe topographical surveys were done with a high-precision Real-Time Kinematic Global Positioning System (GPS-RTK) which has a horizontal error of under 1 cm and a vertical error of under 2 cm. This centimeter-level error is critical to the detection of the subtle, short-term morphological changes in a dynamic coastal environment, especially in intertidal and upper-beach environments. This system facilitated the generation of High-Resolution Digital Terrain Models (DTMs) of El Jadida bay, of which there are no existing field-based high-resolution topo-gravity data existing. The system was equipped with a mobile rover unit and a fixed base station (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig2\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e2\u003c/span\u003e) which works in real time to correct differential positioning and reduce both random and systematic errors. This in situ measurement method was favored over remote sensing methods since the currently available satellite-derived DEMS and airborne Lidar data in Morocco do not provide sufficient spatial or vertical resolution to provide morphodynamic analysis at the beach scale, especially in tidally dominated regions.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e \u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eA total of 77 cross-shore beach profiles were established at regular 20 m interval along the entire bay. This dense and systematic sampling strategy ensured continuous spatial coverage and a representative characterization of the bay\u0026rsquo;s morpho-sedimentary system. These transects provided continuous elevation data from the upper backshore to the nearshore zone, extending inland and seaward to approximately\u0026thinsp;\u0026minus;\u0026thinsp;1 m depth depending on local conditions (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig3\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e3\u003c/span\u003e). Four survey campaigns were conducted between 2021 and 2024 to monitor short-term morphological evolution and sediment redistribution driven by wave and current actions. All measurements were taken during low-tide conditions, which maximized the surveyed intertidal surface and ensured the acquisition of complete beach profiles. The repeated high-resolution surveys, including post-storm conditions, provide a robust framework for quantifying storm-induced morphological responses in a frequently affected coastal setting.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e \u003c/p\u003e \u003c/div\u003e \u003cdiv id=\"Sec4\" class=\"Section2\"\u003e \u003ch2\u003e2.2 Data analysis\u003c/h2\u003e \u003cp\u003eThe collected topographic data were processed to evaluate the morphological evolution of El Jadida bay between the two survey periods (September 2021, March 2022, October 2022, and March 2024). Each beach profile was analyzed to quantify variations in elevation and to identify zones of erosion and accretion across the surveyed transects.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eTo spatially extend these observations and generate continuous elevation surfaces, the data were interpolated in ArcGIS using geostatistical methods. The choice of interpolation technique is crucial, as it directly influences the accuracy and reliability of the resolution Digital Terrain Models (DTMs), Deterministic approaches, such as Inverse Distance Weighting (IDW), have been widely applied in coastal studies (Kiš \u003cspan citationid=\"CR19\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2016\u003c/span\u003e). However, several authors have demonstrated that geostatistical methods, particularly Ordinary Kriging (OK), provide superior accuracy when the spatial structure of the data is well defined (Merwade, Maidment, and Goff \u003cspan citationid=\"CR26\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2006\u003c/span\u003e; Curtarelli et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR10\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2015\u003c/span\u003e). Considering the characteristics of the collected data and the need to model spatial patterns with associated uncertainty, Ordinary Kriging (OK) was selected for this study. OK is particularly well suited for environmental applications, as it predicts unknown values at unsampled locations by accounting for spatial autocorrelation and simultaneously provides an estimate of the prediction uncertainty. The interpolation was performed at a spatial resolution of approximately 1 meter using a spherical semivariogram model with a nugget of 0.15 m\u0026sup2;, sill of 1.25 m\u0026sup2;, and range of 45 m. The model was validated through cross-validation, yielding a Root Mean Square Error (RMSE) of 0.18 m, indicating good prediction accuracy. These parameters ensure robust spatial modeling and uncertainty quantification in the generated Digital Terrain Models (DTMs) (Li and Heap 2014). Before generating the DTMs, the kriging model was calibrated and validated using cross validation techniques to ensure consistency between observed and predicted values (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig4\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e4\u003c/span\u003e).\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eThis interpolation method was used to generate a Digital Terrain Model (DTM) with 1-meter spatial resolution using optimized kriging parameters for each survey periods September 2021, March 2022, October 2022 and Mach 2024 thus enabling a detailed spatial analysis of topographic changes and sediment dynamics across the beach of El Jadida.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e \u003c/p\u003e \u003c/div\u003e"},{"header":"3 Results","content":"\u003cdiv id=\"Sec6\" class=\"Section2\"\u003e \u003ch2\u003e3.1 Morphological characteristics of El Jadida Bay\u003c/h2\u003e \u003cp\u003eDigital terrain models (DTMs) created for El Jadida Bay over four periods reveal marked sedimentary and morphological changes throughout the study area (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig5\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e5\u003c/span\u003e). These changes are particularly evident following high-energy storm events, which caused marine submersion (Joudar et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR16\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2024\u003c/span\u003e) and significant sediment redistribution. Spatial comparisons of the DTMs highlight areas of erosion and accretion, reflecting the dynamic response of the beach to hydrodynamic forces; these results are consistent with previous studies conducted in the study area. (Bourhili et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR5\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2023\u003c/span\u003e; Mohamed Chaibi et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR8\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2013\u003c/span\u003e; Khouaja, Ouadia, and Irzan 2016).\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eThe September 2021 survey produced a (DTM) based on topographic measurements of El Jadida Bay, revealing elevation values ranging from \u0026minus;\u0026thinsp;1.4 m to 4.9 m. higher elevation zones are primarily located in the backshore area, along the boundary marked by the retaining wall separating the beach from the corniche, extending across the bay. In this sector, elevation value range between 2m and 4.9m, indicating substantial sediment accumulation, particularly in the southeastern part of the bay (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig5\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e5\u003c/span\u003eA). In contrast, the lower elevation values, ranging from 0 to -1 m, are observed in the intertidal zone. This zone is frequently submerged and subject to high hydrodynamic energy from waves and tidal actions, contributing to active sediment reworking and erosion.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eThe Digital Terrain Model (DTM) generated from the March 2022 survey reveals homogenous topographic distribution across El Jadida Bay, with elevations ranging between \u0026minus;\u0026thinsp;1 m and 3 m. The highest terrain features, reaching 2 to 3 meters (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig5\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e5\u003c/span\u003eB), are predominantly located in the southeastern section of the bay and along the backshore, indicating continued sediment buildup in these areas. In contrast, the lowest elevations, which fall below \u0026minus;\u0026thinsp;1 meter, are mainly observed in the northwestern intertidal zone. This pattern highlights a spatial gradient in sediment dynamics, with depositional processes prevailing in the sheltered southeastern margin and erosion trends along the more exposed northwestern foreshore. Later in the same year, an additional topographic survey was conducted in October 2022. The resulting DTM shows elevation values ranging from \u0026minus;\u0026thinsp;1 m to 4 m. compared to the March 2022 dataset, this model reveals a general erosive trend across the beach. Areas that previously exhibited higher elevation particularly in March show a noticeable decrease in elevation during the October campaign (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig5\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e5\u003c/span\u003eC), indicating sediment loss and shoreline retreat in response to seasonal or event driven forcing. This highlights the dynamic nature of sediment redistribution within the bay over short temporal scales. The fourth topographic survey occurred in March 2024, immediately concluding a storm event that battered the Moroccan Atlantic coast on 11\u0026ndash;12 March 2024. The topographic survey in the El Jadida Bay registered drastic changes in the coastline morphology, especially along the shoreline and in the upper beach areas. Sediments accumulated beyond 3 m elevation (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig5\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e5\u003c/span\u003eD), mainly in the backshore; the large sedimentation is due to the massive sediment transport generated by the storm surge, depositing and trapping sediments against the coastal retaining wall that separates the beach from the coast corniche. These recorded alterations stress the influence of extreme weather events on coastal sediment dynamics and link with the importance of coastal defense structure in trapping and redirecting sediments from transport.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e \u003c/p\u003e \u003c/div\u003e \u003cdiv id=\"Sec7\" class=\"Section2\"\u003e \u003ch2\u003e3.2 Morpho-sedimentary variation between 2021 and 2024\u003c/h2\u003e \u003cp\u003eThe evolution of El Jadida Bay between 2021 and 2024 was analyzed using data collected during survey missions carried out in connection with storm events affecting the Atlantic coast. Comparing these successive surveys, as well as the net change between the first and the last campaigns, reveals both short term responses to storms and long term patterns of erosion and accretion across the bay. This approach provides an overall understanding of storm driven sediment redistribution and highlights the sectors most sensitive to erosional processes.\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/div\u003e \u003cdiv id=\"Sec8\" class=\"Section2\"\u003e \u003ch2\u003e3.3 Spatial variability of beach morphology: Profile analysis\u003c/h2\u003e \u003cp\u003eTo assess the evolving morphology of the beach, three representative profiles were selected in different sectors (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig6\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e6\u003c/span\u003e). comparing them over the period 2021\u0026ndash;2024 made it possible to detect changes in elevation and analyze the redistribution of sediments between morphological units. This profile assessment complements the bye wide synthesis by providing detailed information on the spatial variability of the beach morphology, before moving on to the description of each profile.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e \u003c/p\u003e \u003c/div\u003e \u003cdiv id=\"Sec9\" class=\"Section2\"\u003e \u003ch2\u003e3.4 Spatial variability of beach morphology: Profile analysis\u003c/h2\u003e \u003cp\u003e \u003cb\u003eProfile 1\u003c/b\u003e \u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eProfile 1 shows a noticeable trend toward sediment accumulation during the first three missions conducted (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig7\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e7\u003c/span\u003e), revealing a marked tendency in the topographic assessment. Indeed, the morphological variations observed during the missions carried out in September 2021, March 2022, and October 2022 indicate a largely generalized trend toward accretion, suggestion significant transformations over time. This trend was then interrupted by the considerable erosion that occurred during the violent storm of March 11 and 12, 2024, which caused severe flooding along the coastal region of El Jadida Bay. This morphological change not only highlights the dynamic interaction between accumulation and erosion, but also raises important questions about the long term impact on coastal environments affected by such extreme events.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e \u003cb\u003eProfile 2\u003c/b\u003e \u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eThe sediment profile analysis reveals contrasting morphological dynamics at profile 2 although a general trend toward erosion is observed across the entire foreshore, localized sediment accumulation is noticeable at the top of the beach (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig7\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e7\u003c/span\u003e). in addition, the lower zone experienced moderate, and temporary, sedimentation between 2021 and2024. These observations suggest that the sedimentary processes involved are complex, influenced by multiple factors such as swell, tides, coastal currents, and sediment inputs.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e \u003cb\u003eProfile 3\u003c/b\u003e \u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eProfile 3 is distinguished by its complex morphology, characterized by significant sediment accumulation in the top part of the beach, leading to the formation of an abrupt estran. Detailed analysis of the morphological data obtained during the four field missions highlights contrasting sediment dynamics, dominated by phases of marked erosion (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig7\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e7\u003c/span\u003e). in particular, data from October 2022 show significant episodes of erosion that led a notable reduction in the volume of sediment on the beach. However, these erosion phases were followed by rapid coastal restoration, observed after the marine flooding that occurred in March 2024. This rapid sediment accretion suggest that this area is highly responsive to extreme hydrodynamic forces, such as storms and high tides.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e \u003c/p\u003e \u003c/div\u003e \u003cdiv id=\"Sec10\" class=\"Section2\"\u003e \u003ch2\u003e3.5 Temporal synthesis of beach morphological variation\u003c/h2\u003e \u003cp\u003eThe sediment budget analysis for El Jadida Bay between 2021 and 2024 (Table\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Tab1\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e1\u003c/span\u003e) reveals a net accretional trend, with accumulation processes dominating the overall morpho-sedimentary dynamics. Accumulation accounts for 56.03% of the total sediment exchange, corresponding to a net gain of +\u0026thinsp;65,182 m\u0026sup3; over an area of 219,705 m\u0026sup2;. In contrast, erosion affected 172,388 m\u0026sup2; (43.97% of the surveyed area), resulting in a total sediment loss of -47,526 m\u0026sup3;. Despite the prevalence of accretion, the substantial magnitude of erosion underscores the spatial and temporal complexity of beach response, wherein phases of sediment deposition are interspersed with localized but significant erosional events. The net sediment balance for the study period is +\u0026thinsp;17,656 m\u0026sup3;, indicating a modest but consistent trend toward beach aggradation. This positive budget suggests a temporary enhancement of beach resilience and sediment storage capacity over the three-year monitoring window likely influenced by seasonal wave climates, sediment supply from adjacent sources, or reduced anthropogenic disturbance during the observation period.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e \u003cdiv class=\"gridtable\"\u003e\u003ctable float=\"Yes\" id=\"Tab1\" border=\"1\"\u003e \u003ccaption language=\"En\"\u003e \u003cdiv class=\"CaptionNumber\"\u003eTable 1\u003c/div\u003e \u003cdiv class=\"CaptionContent\"\u003e \u003cp\u003eVolume (m\u003csup\u003e3\u003c/sup\u003e), surface area (m\u003csup\u003e2\u003c/sup\u003e) and percentage of accretion and erosion in El Jadida Bay between 2021 and 2024.\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/div\u003e \u003c/caption\u003e \u003ccolgroup cols=\"4\"\u003e \u003cdiv align=\"left\" class=\"colspec\" colname=\"c1\" colnum=\"1\"\u003e\u003c/div\u003e \u003cdiv align=\"left\" class=\"colspec\" colname=\"c2\" colnum=\"2\"\u003e\u003c/div\u003e \u003cdiv align=\"char\" char=\".\" class=\"colspec\" colname=\"c3\" colnum=\"3\"\u003e\u003c/div\u003e \u003cdiv align=\"char\" char=\".\" class=\"colspec\" colname=\"c4\" colnum=\"4\"\u003e\u003c/div\u003e \u003cthead\u003e \u003ctr\u003e \u003cth align=\"left\" colname=\"c1\"\u003e\u0026nbsp;\u003c/th\u003e \u003cth align=\"left\" colname=\"c2\"\u003e \u003cp\u003eVolume (m\u003csup\u003e3\u003c/sup\u003e)\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/th\u003e \u003cth align=\"left\" colname=\"c3\"\u003e \u003cp\u003eSuperficie (m\u003csup\u003e2\u003c/sup\u003e)\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/th\u003e \u003cth align=\"left\" colname=\"c4\"\u003e \u003cp\u003e%\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/th\u003e \u003c/tr\u003e \u003c/thead\u003e \u003ctbody\u003e \u003ctr\u003e \u003ctd align=\"left\" colname=\"c1\"\u003e \u003cp\u003eAccumulation\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/td\u003e \u003ctd align=\"left\" colname=\"c2\"\u003e \u003cp\u003e+\u0026thinsp;65182\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/td\u003e \u003ctd align=\"char\" char=\".\" colname=\"c3\"\u003e \u003cp\u003e219705\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/td\u003e \u003ctd align=\"char\" char=\".\" colname=\"c4\"\u003e \u003cp\u003e56.03\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/td\u003e \u003c/tr\u003e \u003ctr\u003e \u003ctd align=\"left\" colname=\"c1\"\u003e \u003cp\u003eErosion\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/td\u003e \u003ctd align=\"left\" colname=\"c2\"\u003e \u003cp\u003e-47526\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/td\u003e \u003ctd align=\"char\" char=\".\" colname=\"c3\"\u003e \u003cp\u003e172388\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/td\u003e \u003ctd align=\"char\" char=\".\" colname=\"c4\"\u003e \u003cp\u003e43.97\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/td\u003e \u003c/tr\u003e \u003ctr\u003e \u003ctd align=\"left\" colname=\"c1\"\u003e \u003cp\u003eAccumulation/\u0026eacute;rosion totale\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/td\u003e \u003ctd align=\"left\" colname=\"c2\"\u003e \u003cp\u003e+\u0026thinsp;17656\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/td\u003e \u003ctd align=\"char\" char=\".\" colname=\"c3\"\u003e \u003cp\u003e392093\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/td\u003e \u003ctd align=\"left\" colname=\"c4\"\u003e\u0026nbsp;\u003c/td\u003e \u003c/tr\u003e \u003c/tbody\u003e \u003c/colgroup\u003e \u003c/table\u003e\u003c/div\u003e \u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eTo visualize the spatial distribution of these volumetric changes, a sediment budget map was generated (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig8\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e8\u003c/span\u003e). Areas of erosion are depicted in red, while zones of deposition appear in green. The map highlights a heterogeneous pattern of morphological change across the bay: accretion is widespread but generally of low magnitude (average rate: +0.02 m yr⁻\u0026sup1;), whereas erosion is more spatially confined yet exhibits a higher average rate of \u0026minus;\u0026thinsp;0.09 m yr⁻\u0026sup1;. This contrast reflects the typical behavior of high-energy sandy beaches, where depositional processes dominate over large areas under fair-weather conditions, while storm-driven erosion concentrates in specific morphological hotspots such as the lower foreshore, profile inflection points, or areas adjacent to hard coastal structures.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eNotably, the total area affected by morphological change spans 392,093 m\u0026sup2;, encompassing nearly the entire intertidal and upper subtidal zone of the bay. The co-occurrence of accretion and erosion at fine spatial scales (Fig.\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Fig8\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e8\u003c/span\u003e; Table\u0026nbsp;\u003cspan refid=\"Tab1\" class=\"InternalRef\"\u003e1\u003c/span\u003e) illustrates the dynamic equilibrium or disequilibrium characteristic of wave-dominated shorelines. These findings emphasize that while the beach system is currently in a net accretion phase, localized erosion remains a critical concern for infrastructure and ecosystem integrity, particularly in vulnerable sectors exposed to oblique wave approach or reduced sediment connectivity.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e \u003c/p\u003e \u003c/div\u003e"},{"header":"4 Discussion","content":"\u003cdiv id=\"Sec12\" class=\"Section2\"\u003e \u003ch2\u003e4.1 Spatial and temporal Morphological Dynamics\u003c/h2\u003e \u003cp\u003eThe findings of this study underscore the highly dynamic and spatially heterogeneous nature of sedimentary processes in El Jadida Bay, where accretion and erosion operate concurrently often at fine spatial scales driven primarily by wave climate, tidal forcing, and episodic storm events. This dual behavior reflects the inherent sensitivity of wave-dominated embayment to short-term hydrodynamic variability and longer-term morphodynamic feedbacks. The coexistence of depositional and erosional zones highlights the non-equilibrium state of the beach system, wherein local imbalances in sediment transport continuously reshape the coastal morphology in response to fluctuating environmental conditions (Bourhili et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR4\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2025\u003c/span\u003e). Notably, the spatial and temporal patterns documented between 2021 and 2024 closely resemble those reported by Bourhili et al. (\u003cspan citationid=\"CR5\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2023\u003c/span\u003e) for the 2017\u0026ndash;2019 period, suggesting a recurring morphodynamic signature in El Jadida Bay. This consistency across distinct monitoring windows points to the dominant control exerted by regional hydrodynamics particularly the persistent northwesterly (NW-NNW) swell regime over sediment redistribution. Such recurrence reinforces the notion that El Jadida functions as a semi-closed, wave-refracted system where morphological evolution is governed more by external forcing and basin geometry than by stochastic variability alone.\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/div\u003e \u003cdiv id=\"Sec13\" class=\"Section2\"\u003e \u003ch2\u003e4.2 Influence of structural and geomorphological controls\u003c/h2\u003e \u003cp\u003eOne major finding of this study is that the accretion trends are dominant particularly in the upper (landward) parts of the bay which contribute to more than 56% of the total sediment budget. This net aggradation is a systematic or organized morphological response to hydrodynamic forcing and not a transient or random pattern. The accretion signal can be especially pronounced when it comes to high-energy events, e.g. the severe storm of March 2024 that likely caused the strong cross-shore sediment mobilization at the storm peak, followed by onshore-directed transport and deposition at the post-storm recovery phase under lower-energy conditions. This disposition towards depositions seems to be increased by two principal causes. To begin with, the El Jadida Port breakwater provides a partial shield against the incident wave energy of the prevailing NW-NNW directions. By changing the wave propagation and lowering the nearshore orbital velocities, the breakawater restricts the sability of sediments and predisposes to net deposition on its lee. Consequently, the neighboring shoreline acts as an unintended sediment trap, which has facilitated local accretion. Although this type of coastal infrastructure can lead to short-term stabilization of the shorelines, it also alters alongshore sediment transport pathways, which potentiates sediment deficits and erosion to close-by sectors -A well-documented reaction of engineered coast lining (Short and Jackson \u003cspan citationid=\"CR34\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2013\u003c/span\u003e; Harley and Kinsela \u003cspan citationid=\"CR12\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2022\u003c/span\u003e).\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eSecond, the planform geometry of El Jadida Bay which is concave, is at the core of modulatory of the wave energy due to refraction and partial reflection (Mayhew and Parkinson 2007). The entrance of the waves crests into the bay are gradually refracted to match the curved shoreline creating a more homogeneous distribution of wave energy and a decrease in localized hotspots of erosion. This hydrodynamic modification forms relatively sheltered nearshore zones which become good to sedimentation, especially in the inner bay. this process in the long run facilitates progressive infilling and morphological stabilization which is compatible with self-organizing behavior seen in embayed coastal systems.\u003c/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eFurther in support of gradual adjustments of bathymetry there is the gradual depletion of the wave energy in the outer bay to inner bay in support of the deposition and retention of fine and medium graded sands. Such morphological transformations, in their turn, may feed back into future pathways of wave transformations and sediment transport, which may serve to reinforce the apparent accretionary trend.\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/div\u003e \u003cdiv id=\"Sec14\" class=\"Section2\"\u003e \u003ch2\u003e4.3 Implications for coastal management and climate resilience\u003c/h2\u003e \u003cp\u003eThe high-resolution topographic surveys conducted in El Jadida Bay reveal that, despite significant perturbations caused by storms and wave-driven processes, the beach system exhibits a tendency to return toward a quasi-stable morphological configuration, suggesting the presence of a morphodynamic memory (Bourhili et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR4\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2025\u003c/span\u003e, \u003cspan citationid=\"CR5\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2023\u003c/span\u003e). This resilience reflects the intrinsic capacity of the bay to reorganize sediment and energy distribution following disturbances, indicating that certain sectors are inherently more stable, while others respond more dynamically to hydrodynamic forcing. Such behavior represents a conceptually original feature of the coastal system and provides a framework for understanding short-term morphodynamics beyond purely observational descriptions. To formalize this concept, we propose a site-specific conceptual model describing the bay\u0026rsquo;s morphodynamic signature. The semi-enclosed geometry of El Jadida Bay acts as a natural filter for incoming wave energy, with wave refraction and partial reflection redistributing energy along the curved shoreline. This process creates sheltered zones in the inner bay, which favor sediment accumulation and accretion, while exposed sectors experience higher erosion during storms. Structural features, such as the El Jadida Port breakwater, further modify local hydrodynamics by attenuating wave energy and reducing sediment resuspension in its lee, effectively creating localized sediment sinks. The interplay between bay geometry, hydrodynamic forcing, and anthropogenic structures defines the characteristic patterns of erosion, accretion, and post-storm recovery, which collectively constitute the morphodynamic signature (Sherwood et al. \u003cspan citationid=\"CR33\" class=\"CitationRef\"\u003e2022\u003c/span\u003e; Castelle and Gerd Masselink 2022). This conceptual framework provides a mechanistic understanding of the bay\u0026rsquo;s resilience and highlights the coupling between physical drivers and observed sediment dynamics. It also underscores the importance of site-specific geomorphic and hydrodynamic constraints, demonstrating why certain sectors are more resilient and others more susceptible to short-term morphological change. The proposed morphodynamic signature not only aids in interpreting the present short-term observations but also establishes a baseline for future monitoring, numerical modelling, and coastal management strategies, particularly in storm-prone and semi-enclosed embayed systems. Finally, integrating this conceptual model with historical vulnerability analyses and high-resolution DTMs allows for a more comprehensive assessment of both short-term morphodynamics and potential long-term coastal evolution. By formalizing the morphodynamic signature, the study provides a novel scientific contribution that combines empirical observations, process understanding, and resilience assessment, bridging the gap between descriptive monitoring and mechanistic coastal science.\u003c/p\u003e \u003c/div\u003e"},{"header":"5 Conclusion","content":"\u003cp\u003eThis study has provided a comprehensive, data driven characterization of the morpho sedimentary dynamics of El Jadida Bay between 2021 and 2024 through high-resolution topographic survey and the generation of Digital Terrain Models (DTMs). The findings highlight a complex interplay between sediment accumulation and erosion, influenced by both natural forcing factor a coastal infrastructure. Four field campaigns conducted over different seasons and hydrodynamic conditions revealed a general trend toward sediment accretion, with significant volumetric gains observed particularly in the upper sections of the bay. This accretion, accounting for approximately 56% of the overall sediment balance, is largely attributed to the bay\u0026rsquo;s concave geomorphology, the presence of coastal defenses such as the port jetty and seawall, and the attenuation of the wave energy through diffraction and refraction mechanisms. Nevertheless, erosion processes remain active and spatially localized, underscoring the dynamic and ever changing nature of this coastal system. Notably, the March 2024 study, which was carried out right after a major storm, showed how severe weather can cause significant sediment redistribution. Significant morphological changes were caused by storm-induced transport, especially in regions where coastal buildings contained or focused wave energy. These findings support earlier research and demonstrate how vulnerable El Jadida's coastal environment is to both seasonal and sporadic hydrodynamic changes. In view of growing climate variability and the anticipated increase in the frequency of extreme weather events, they thus emphasize the significance of ongoing monitoring and integrated coastal zone management. To gain a deeper understanding of the fundamental processes driving coastal change, future research should concentrate on combining these topographic data with hydrodynamic modeling and sediment transport simulations. These methods will be essential for creating adaptable plans that improve the coastline of El Jadida's resilience.\u003c/p\u003e"},{"header":"Declarations","content":"\u003ch2\u003eClinical Trial Registration\u003c/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eClinical trial number: not applicable.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConflict of interest\u003c/strong\u003e\u003c/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eFunding\u003c/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe authors have no relevant financial or non-financial interests to disclose\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eAuthor Contribution\u003c/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI.J. conceived and designed the study, conducted the field surveys, processed and analyzed the data, and wrote the original draft of the manuscript and prepared all figures and tables and interpreted the results. M.B.conducted the field surveys, processed and analyzed the data. N.E. conducted the field surveys, processed and analyzed the data prepared all figures and tables and interpreted the results. K.M and B.Z and K.E. supervised the research, contributed to the interpretation of the results, and reviewed and edited the manuscript. All authors read and approved the final version of the manuscript.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eData Availability\u003c/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe data used and analyzed during the current study were obtained from original topographic surveys conducted by the authors. Due to the ongoing use of these data for subsequent research and publication, they are not publicly available at this time.\u003c/p\u003e"},{"header":"References","content":"\u003col\u003e\u003cli\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAangri A, Hakkou M, Krien Y, A\u0026iuml;cha, Benmohammadi (2022) Predicting Shoreline Change for the Agadir and Taghazout Coasts (Morocco). 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Mar Geol 56(1\u0026ndash;4):93\u0026ndash;118. \u003cspan class=\"ExternalRef\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"RefSource\"\u003ehttps://doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(84)90008-2\u003c/span\u003e\u003cspan address=\"10.1016/0025-3227(84)90008-2\" targettype=\"DOI\" class=\"RefTarget\"\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/li\u003e\u003c/ol\u003e"}],"fulltextSource":"","fullText":"","funders":[],"hasAdminPriorityOnWorkflow":false,"hasManuscriptDocX":true,"hasOptedInToPreprint":true,"hasPassedJournalQc":"","hasAnyPriority":false,"hideJournal":true,"highlight":"","institution":"","isAcceptedByJournal":true,"isAuthorSuppliedPdf":false,"isDeskRejected":"","isHiddenFromSearch":false,"isInQc":false,"isInWorkflow":false,"isPdf":false,"isPdfUpToDate":true,"isWithdrawnOrRetracted":false,"journal":{"display":true,"email":"[email protected]","identity":"researchsquare","isNatureJournal":false,"hasQc":true,"allowDirectSubmit":true,"externalIdentity":"","sideBox":"","snPcode":"","submissionUrl":"/submission","title":"Research Square","twitterHandle":"researchsquare","acdcEnabled":true,"dfaEnabled":false,"editorialSystem":"","reportingPortfolio":"","inReviewEnabled":false,"inReviewRevisionsEnabled":true},"keywords":"Coastal morphology, Digital Terrain Model (DTM), topographic survey, DGPS, El Jadida bay, Morocco","lastPublishedDoi":"10.21203/rs.3.rs-8776941/v1","lastPublishedDoiUrl":"https://doi.org/10.21203/rs.3.rs-8776941/v1","license":{"name":"CC BY 4.0","url":"https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/"},"manuscriptAbstract":"\u003cp\u003eKnowledge of coastal morphological processes is imperative in successful management of shorelines, especially in regions that are affected by both natural forces and human efforts. This research will examine how the El Jadida Bay (Morocco) morpho-sedimentary changes during a three-year period (2021\u0026ndash;2024) as a fill to a research gap to enhance the current knowledge of short term coastal behavior. The topographic data were collected as high resolution data in four field survey based on the Global Positioning System Real Time Kinematic (GPS-RTK) measurements, where Digital Terrain Models (DTMs) were made. Spatial studies of these DTMs showed that there was a lot of morphological variation, whereby there are boom and boom erosion zones. There was an overall tendency towards the accumulation of sediments in upper beach sectors and local tides were in the form of erosion in intertidal regions. It was observed, especially after the March 2024 storm, how powerful the extreme meteorological conditions are to redistribute the sediment across the bay. On the whole, the findings support that combined topographic surveillance coupled with geostatistical modeling is an effective method to identify and quantify short term morphological variations. The research will be useful in the management and resilience of the sensitive coastal environment of the El Jadida shoreline by offering insight into the short-term dynamics of coastal processes that determine the shoreline.\u003c/p\u003e","manuscriptTitle":"Morpho-sedimentary dynamics of a high-energy Atlantic beach: Insights from repeated topographic surveys in El Jadida Bay (Morocco)","msid":"","msnumber":"","nonDraftVersions":[{"code":1,"date":"2026-02-13 09:35:20","doi":"10.21203/rs.3.rs-8776941/v1","editorialEvents":[{"type":"communityComments","content":0}],"status":"published","journal":{"display":true,"email":"[email protected]","identity":"researchsquare","isNatureJournal":false,"hasQc":true,"allowDirectSubmit":true,"externalIdentity":"","sideBox":"","snPcode":"","submissionUrl":"/submission","title":"Research Square","twitterHandle":"researchsquare","acdcEnabled":true,"dfaEnabled":false,"editorialSystem":"","reportingPortfolio":"","inReviewEnabled":false,"inReviewRevisionsEnabled":true}}],"origin":"","ownerIdentity":"99ee4e05-20ae-4cc8-9fa4-5ef6d31d4168","owner":[],"postedDate":"February 13th, 2026","published":true,"recentEditorialEvents":[],"rejectedJournal":[],"revision":"","amendment":"","status":"posted","subjectAreas":[],"tags":[],"updatedAt":"2026-05-08T06:10:53+00:00","versionOfRecord":[],"versionCreatedAt":"2026-02-13 09:35:20","video":"","vorDoi":"","vorDoiUrl":"","workflowStages":[]},"version":"v1","identity":"rs-8776941","journalConfig":"researchsquare"},"__N_SSP":true},"page":"/article/[identity]/[[...version]]","query":{"redirect":"/article/rs-8776941","identity":"rs-8776941","version":["v1"]},"buildId":"XKTyCvWXoU3ODBz1xrDgd","isFallback":false,"isExperimentalCompile":false,"dynamicIds":[84888],"gssp":true,"scriptLoader":[]}