Performance and Mechanism of Hydrolyzed Keratin for Hair Photoaging Prevention

Photoaging is common and represents one of the primary pathways for hair damage in daily life. Hydrolyzed keratin, which is usually derived from wool and consists of a series of polypeptide molecules, has been investigated as UV damage prevention ingredient for hair care. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and fluorescent penetration experiments verified that hydrolyzed keratin can deposit on the hair cuticles to form a film and partly penetrate into hair cortex. This film played as a UV blocker and helped hair resist surface damage and maintain a sleek and healthy morphology after UV radiation. Surprisingly, it was found that hydrolyzed keratin treatment combined with subsequently UV radiation could significantly improve the tensile properties of hair. For hydrolyzed keratin treated hair, tensile strength maintained after UV radiation, while as a comparison, it decreased by 11.74% for untreated hair. This phenomenon is explained by a UV-induced degradation-penetration mechanism. During UV radiation, an increase in free amino acid content and conductivity was observed for hydrolyzed keratin solution, demonstrating the photodegradation into smaller peptide and amino acid. The degradation of hydrolyzed keratin allowed it more easily to enter the interior of hair cortex, thereby enhanced the tensile properties via enhancing chemical bonds.