Preliminary Study of the Potential Photoprotective Effect of Organogel-Based Lipstick Formulations: Texture Analysis, Rheological, Thermal and Sensory Properties

With the increase in occupation-specific risks of lip cancer associated with solar radiation, there is a need for developing photoprotective lipsticks to protect skin against harmful effects of UV radiation. Considering the unique chemical and physical properties of low-molecular-weight organogelators (LMOGs), the present study intended to assess the UV protective properties of LMOGs-based lipstick formulations. In this study, dibenzylidene-D-sorbitol (DBS) and 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA) were used to formulate lipsticks : L1 (1% DBS), L2 (10% 12-HSA), L3 (1.5% DBS) and L4 (control, no LMOGs). The lipstick formulations were tested for in vitro sun protection factors (SPF), UVA protection factor (UVA-PF), thermal, mechanical and texture analyses. Lipsticks with LMOGs exhibited higher UVA-PF and SPF, and more particularly 12-HSA-based lipstick. Results showed also the viscoelastic and heat-resistant properties of LMOGs and their effect of increasing pay-off values. In general, texture analysis indicating that 12-HSA-based lipstick was significantly harder to bend compared to control, while other formulations became softer and easier to bend throughout the stability study. Finally, sensorial and instrumental analyses permitted to classify lipsticks into two groups. This work suggests the potential use of LMOGs as a structuring agent for lipsticks paving the way towards more photoprotective and sustainable-derived alternatives.