MODELLING THE SUSPENDED SAND CONCENTRATION PROFILE UNDER BREAKING WAVES

MODELLING THE SUSPENDED SAND CONCENTRATION PROFILE UNDER BREAKING WAVES | Authorea try { document.documentElement.classList.add('js'); } catch (e) { } var _gaq = _gaq || []; _gaq.push(['_setAccount', 'G-8VDV14Y67G']); _gaq.push(['_trackPageview']); (function() { var ga = document.createElement('script'); ga.type = 'text/javascript'; ga.async = true; ga.src = ('https:' == document.location.protocol ? 'https://ssl' : 'http://www') + '.google-analytics.com/ga.js'; var s = document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(ga, s); })(); Skip to main content Preprints Collections Wiley Open Research IET Open Research Ecological Society of Japan All Collections About About Authorea FAQs Contact Us Quick Search anywhere Search for preprint articles, keywords, etc. Search Search ADVANCED SEARCH SCROLL This is a preprint and has not been peer reviewed. Data may be preliminary. 4 February 2026 V1 Latest version Share on MODELLING THE SUSPENDED SAND CONCENTRATION PROFILE UNDER BREAKING WAVES Authors : Gabriel Lim 0000-0003-0880-9851 , Ravindra Jayaratne 0000-0003-1351-9242 [email protected] , Mohammad Tabasi 0000-0001-8137-110X , and Nilakshan Balasubramaniam 0009-0002-6103-9876 Authors Info & Affiliations https://doi.org/10.22541/au.177023096.66062554/v1 64 views 48 downloads Contents Abstract Supplementary Material Information & Authors Metrics & Citations View Options References Figures Tables Media Share Abstract Five suspended sand concentration profile (C[z]) models, four existing formulations and one modified model, were evaluated against 119 laboratory tests from four large-scale datasets covering multiple cross-shore zones under regular and irregular breaking waves. Existing formulations were grouped into power-law and exponential models, producing mildly parabolic and quasi-linear profiles, respectively. The classical Rouse profile was found unsuitable near the bed and free surface, yielding unrealistic concentrations as z → 0 and z → d, and therefore recommended only when the local water depth greatly exceeds reference elevation. Power-law models derived from the Rouse formulation exhibited excessively steep profiles due to small mixing parameter values, leading to quasi-uniform concentrations throughout the water column. In contrast, measured profiles were consistently concave, with elevated near-bed concentrations and reduced values in the upper water column, resulting in substantial over-prediction by power-law models aloft. To address this limitation, an empirical correction factor was introduced to enhance the mixing parameter, producing a modified SR93-based formulation (L19 C[z]) that yields more realistic, smoothly varying profiles. The L19 model demonstrated superior agreement with observations across all cross-shore zones, with root-mean-square errors ranging from 0.03 to 2.3 kg m⁻³ (mean 0.56 kg m⁻³), outperforming existing models. Exponential formulations reproduced concentrations near the bed and surface but diverged in the mid-water column and were highly sensitive to reference concentration specification. Finally, the L19 model was validated within a process-based morphodynamic framework using field data from the Hasaki Oceanographic Research Station, achieving a Brier Skill Score of 0.72 under storm conditions. Supplementary Material File (1061561_0_merged_1767869299.pdf) Download 1.32 MB File (manuscript_lim et al final.docx) Download 2.61 MB Information & Authors Information Version history V1 Version 1 04 February 2026 Copyright This work is licensed under a Non Exclusive No Reuse License. Keywords breaking waves concentration profile near-shore reference concentration suspended sand concentration turbulent kinetic energy Authors Affiliations Gabriel Lim 0000-0003-0880-9851 University of East London View all articles by this author Ravindra Jayaratne 0000-0003-1351-9242 [email protected] University of East London View all articles by this author Mohammad Tabasi 0000-0001-8137-110X Fudo Tetra Corporation View all articles by this author Nilakshan Balasubramaniam 0009-0002-6103-9876 University of East London View all articles by this author Metrics & Citations Metrics Article Usage 64 views 48 downloads .FvxKWukQNSOunydq8rnd { width: 100px; } Citations Download citation Gabriel Lim, Ravindra Jayaratne, Mohammad Tabasi, et al. MODELLING THE SUSPENDED SAND CONCENTRATION PROFILE UNDER BREAKING WAVES. Authorea . 04 February 2026. DOI: https://doi.org/10.22541/au.177023096.66062554/v1 If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download. For more information or tips please see 'Downloading to a citation manager' in the Help menu . Format Please select one from the list RIS (ProCite, Reference Manager) EndNote BibTex Medlars RefWorks Direct import Tips for downloading citations document.getElementById('citMgrHelpLink').addEventListener('click', function() { popupHelp(this.href); return false; }); $(".js__slcInclude").on("change", function(e){ if ($(this).val() == 'refworks') $('#direct').prop("checked", false); $('#direct').prop("disabled", ($(this).val() == 'refworks')); }); View Options View options PDF View PDF Figures Tables Media Share Share Share article link Copy Link Copied! Copying failed. 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