Effect of Fermentation Time On The Content of Bioactive Compounds With Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties in Kombucha Yerba Mate Extracts

Kombucha is a beverage made by fermenting sugared tea using a symbiotic culture of bacteria belonging to the genus Acetobacter , Gluconobacter , and the yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces along with glucuronic acid, contribute to health protection. The paper presents the evaluation of ferments as a potential cosmetic raw material obtained from Yerba Mate after different fermentation times with the addition of kombucha. Fermented and unfermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. Studies of antioxidant properties were carried out using DPPH and ABTS radicals. A significant decrease in the intracellular level of free radicals was also observed. Cytotoxicity was determined on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines, resulting in significant increase in cell viability for the ferments. In addition, the ferments showed strong ability to inhibit the activity of lipoxygenase and collagenase and elastase enzymes and long‐lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Extract obtained after 21 days of fermentation contained the highest amount of phenolic acids and xanthines. The results showed that both the analyzed Yerba Mate extract and the ferments obtained with kombucha may be valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.